For a long time, I didn’t give too much thought to the ingredients in cosmetic products. Since many years it has been important to me that the products I use are made without animal testing. Although animal testing is banned in the EU for cosmetics, this is hardly controlled and many companies still find a loophole, for example to test ingredients that are also used in non-cosmetic products on animals.
However, animal testing is only one of many components when it comes to the issue of sustainability in cosmetics. Little by little, I started to dive deeper into this topic and to be more aware of which substances I use on my body.
Why sustainable cosmetics?
- Avoid harmful substances that potentially can cause illness or allergies
- Protect environment
- Protect animals
- Ensure fair conditions for workers
Ingredients you should avoid
There are a LOT of ingredients that are harmful to both the environment and our bodies. We imagine that this wonderful anti-wrinkle cream will do magic to our face, but often the opposite is the case and the products dry out our skin and, in the worst case, can cause allergies or illness. Some ingredients act like hormones which can lead to cancer, infertility or Developmental Disorders. And some even cause great environmental damage if they get into the water. I have put together some of the most common ingredients that you should try to avoid.
Aluminium salts
We hear more and more often that aluminium salts in deodorants are harmful. More precisely, it is not deodorants but antiperspirants (which are supposed to reduce perspiration) that contain aluminium salts. Aluminium salts damage the nerves and are suspected of having a toxic effect on foetuses in the womb. Which mother would want to do that to her unborn child? Not to mention the fact that clogged pores often cause itching. This explained to me why I constantly had red and irritated skin under my armpits.
Fragrances
Fragrances are also problematic. Not only because they often cause allergies, but also because they have hormonal effects and are carcinogenic. Plus, they don’t even have another purpose than adding a nice smell to the cosmetics they are used in.
Microplastics
Another example is microplastics, present for example in peelings, shampoos or shower gels. Microplastics are rinsed off with the wastewater. Since the particles are tiny, they can hardly be filtered out by sewage treatment plants and thus end up in our environment, where they cause great damage because they are not biodegradable. If the microplastics get into the waters, they are mistaken for food and ingested by fish, mussels and other sea creatures. This is a problem in particular because environmental toxins accumulate on the microplastics. The result is sick marine animals, which often end up back in our own stomachs.
Petroleum
Petroleum in cosmetics? What’s that supposed to be good for, you might ask yourself at first, right? Paraffin, wax, vaseline … ever heard of them? That’s right, these are the ingredients with a greasing effect that are present in many creams and are produced on the basis of petroleum due to their low cost. However, these substances do not have a nourishing effect, but dry out the skin even more as they don’t allow it to breathe, even if it feels supple at first. Mineral oil, which is potentially carcinogenic and difficult to break down, is also frequently used in skin care products as it is very durable.
Palm oil
Palm oil has fallen into disrepute, especially in the food industry. But did you know that it is also present in an incredible number of cosmetics? Just like petroleum, palm oil has a lipid-replenishing effect. It is not harmful to health when used in cosmetics, but it is very harmful to the environment. In order to meet the huge demand, enormous cultivation areas are needed, and more and more rainforest is being destroyed to obtain them. Palm oil hides behind a huge number of names, so the best option to detect it is using one of the Apps mentioned further down.
Parabens – Preservatives
Also on the black list are parabens. Parabens are used as preservatives. However, they are suspected of having an effect on the body similar to hormones, others accumulate in the body or are suspected of being carcinogenic.
Plasticisers
Plasticisers are used in cosmetics to obtain a creamy substance and act as preservative. However, they can cause allergies and even cause serious damages in kidney and liver, for example. Especially critical are Phthalates that are suspected to act like hormones. Note that even if the product itself does not contain plasticisers, the container like the toothpaste tube might do so, so wherever possible we should buy cosmetics in plastic-free packings.
Silicones
Silicones are used to easily spread the cosmetic product and leave a smooth feeling on the skin. However, this feeling is not real, as silicones actually cover skin and hair with an air-tight layer which leaves them dried out as no nutrients can get through.
Surfactants or emulsifiers
Surfactants or emulsifiers are used in cosmetics to make our skin more permeable and are responsible, for example, for the foam in shampoos or soaps. However, they can also cause allergies and skin irritations (especially drying out the mucosa) and are suspected of being carcinogenic. In addition, they are mostly produced on the basis of petroleum, which we should avoid, as already described above.
UV filters and UV absorbers
UV filters and UV absorbers – they are only present in sunscreen, right? Wrong. They are often found in other cosmetic products as well. They are a cause for concern because they are harmful to the environment when they get into the water and are suspected of being carcinogenic, hormonally active and allergenic. Experts recommend using products with mineral filters such as Zinc Oxide or Titanium Dioxide.
How to check the products for harmful substances
Let’s be honest: The hieroglyphics on the back of the products are rarely understood by the average consumer. I had started to compile a list of ingredients we should avoid, however when I had reached 10 pages I assumed nobody would actually read through it nor would it be exhaustive for look up, so I refer to below links instead:
Practical apps like Codecheck, ToxFox or Yuka help us to identify critical ingredients in products.
Also, Utopia provides the following links to help check ingredients specifically for microplastics:
- Greenpeace’s microplastic checklist
- The negative list of the German federal government
Other sustainability criteria
Sustainable packaging
How many plastic shampoo bottles and toothpaste tubes do we throw in the rubbish each year? Next time you go shopping, look for recyclable packaging or, even better, packaging made from recycled materials. It is best to choose products that have no unnecessary packaging or are available in refillable containers.
Fair working conditions
We often forget that there are people behind cosmetic products, many of whom are exploited. Labels like Fair for Life certify companies whose suppliers receive a fair price for the products and whose employees work under safe and fair conditions.
Sustainable Cultivation
It is also important that the raw materials are obtained in a sustainable way. This means, for example, that no pesticides are used, as these in turn end up in the groundwater, and that no monocultures are grown.
Sustainability certifications
There are various seals with which cosmetics manufacturers can be awarded. You can find an overview in German at nachhaltiger-einkauf or Verbraucherzentrale. An international list of ecolabels in English can be found here. In Spanish, you can get an overview at cosmeticosveganos.
However, there are also smaller cosmetics manufacturers who cannot afford the rather expensive certification, but this does not mean that they do not fulfil the conditions. An enquiry with these companies regarding the above-mentioned points will provide you with clarity on how they stand on the topic of sustainability.
So what should I buy?
So far my summary regarding sustainable cosmetics.
Be aware of all the different buzzwords: Natural does not automatically mean vegan. Vegan does not automatically mean sustainable. There are lots of facets to this topic and you need to set your own priorities. Does this mean you have to throw all the products you have at home in the rubbish? That’s up to you, depending on what ingredients they contain. If you want to get rid of already bought products, it is worth reading this article here for the ones that live in Germany. Some advice in English can be found here and in Spanish here. Just remember the next time one of your products runs out to find out about sustainable alternatives before you go shopping.
Personally, I chose the Austrian company RINGANA. I was convinced not only by the absolute freshness of the high-quality ingredients, but also by the fairness and sustainability down to the smallest detail. You can find more information here. For a list of some of my favorite skin care products of this brand check this post.
